Zorvival’s Top Twelve must have items

Zorvival’s Top Ten must have Items :

The Z-Bag of Z-Bag’s In an ideal world you would have most if not all of these things, A good well trained dog, and a couple of companions to share some of these tools you have to carry or leave behind due to weight. I didn’t mention food, extra clothes etc. I think you get the point.

Katadyn’s Pocket Water filter is water purification’s accept no substitute product. I think 13,000 is a bit high for the rating for gallons. The rating is probably closer to 7-10 thousand dirty water gallons more likely. When someone offers up a lifetime warranty the product is usually superb. Try looking it up and finding a bad review. EVER. Why is this product the best? Well because this will last you 35 to 27.397 years at a gallon a day. A couple of extra filters and you are set. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/CAMP154-1.html Details: Eliminates bacteria, protozoa, cysts, algae, spores, sediments, and viruses, Reduces chemicals and radioactive particles, 0.2 micron ceramic depth filter that can be cleaned, a measuring gauge indicates when to change filter element, the outlet hose can be attached to a water container, Aluminum, stainless steel, silicone, and ceramic construction materials, Silver impregnated ceramic filter element, 10″ x 2.4″, Weighs 20 ounces, Includes hoses, pre-filter, bottle clip, hydration connector, measuring gauge, cleaning pad and carry bag. This is very portable at only 10″ tall and 20 ounces.

Kabar’s Kukri is the machete of machete’s or rather kukri. It isn’t very long. That’s a good thing. Everything in your bag needs to be lightweight, super durable, easily concealed, and most importantly as multifunctional as possible. You could use this as a weapon in tight quarters due to shape and size. I own one and have given it one hell of a beating. The handle is great, it holds an edge, cuts wood better than any machete I have owned. This is the Wolverine of the gear world. It is small, tough, and deadly. http://www.knifecenter.com/item/KA1249/KABAR Details: Blade Length: 11-1/2, Overall Length: 17, Edge Angle: 20°, Steel: 1085 Carbon, Grind: Hollow, Weight: 1.7 lbs., Sheath: Leather/Cordura

Fire piston. Go with a decent one. Fire is a necessity for boiling water to sterilize, cooking, warm, etc. You absolutely have to have this in your bag. Save on fuels whenever possible. You can collect all types of tender. Fire Pistons usually are used with some sort of charred cloth because it is very easy to make lots of char and very easy to use to light a fire with the right tools and conditions. You can use different materials found in the wild like tinder fungus, milk weed pod, cat tail, wood punk, pith, certain plant stalks, and other materials that fit this description. Fire pistons use combustion. Lighters run out of fuel. Bow Drills do not work in wet conditions easily if ever. Hand Drills require skill. Fire Plows take ALOT of skill. The only other dependable methods are Flint and Steel and “Fire Steel”. I like both of the last options. “Fire Steel” is small and lightweight. Keep it as a backup. http://www.practicalsurvivor.com/firepiston

Lock pick set. Yes, a lock pick set. Why? In the event of a Zombie outbreak people will be boarding windows and locking doors. You are going to not want to pry a door. That is a last resort. That would be noisy, waste energy, possibly lead to detection by other post Zombie Apocalypse hostile humans, and leave you with a disadvantage of locking it behind you. Being able to forage that warehouse/house undetected or lock up behind you as you find a safe haven is a must. If you can avoid detection from the undead and hostile humans, save on ammo, not burn calories, and find good fortification with one tool it becomes a high value item. Prying or compromising a door just means you gave someone else an easy in. This tool set becomes extremely useful for fortification or ambush. Learning to pick locks on a building, home, store, or car is essential. You will need the tool kit to do it and the knowledge to do it efficiently. The supplies you are running low on, shelter, or protective barrier you require are a lock pick away. Stealth saves ammo, energy, and eliminates detection. Go crazy with this: http://www.lockpickshop.com/G-4SET.htmlor http://www.amazon.com/Lock-Technology-LOCK-GRAND-MASTER/dp/B0057LZP1G/ref=pd_sbs_sg_6 plus this http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Lock-Picking-Physical-Penetration/dp/1597496111/ref=pd_sim_dbs_sg_1 and definitely this http://www.spyandsecurity.com/product.asp?productid=419

A small stove. Speaking of stealth, what about the need to boil water or cook? Not being able to for fear of giving away your position with smoke? MSR’s dragonfly is one option. The problem with almost any pocket stove is the LOUD and I do mean LOUD noise they emit. You can hide a flame’s visibility if it is small enough. You cannot hide a campfire’s flame with the turn of a knob to kill the fuel supplied. You also leave behind campfire evidence and the tons of smoke emitted. I understand the pros and cons and have heard the horror stories about all products similar to this. It is the best of these technologies. You simply will need to make a fire in a small space indoors at some point. Why not have something small and light to use? The Dragonfly is very versatile in its fuel acceptance types, which, gives it a nod for best of the best. Details: the fuel sources it accepts are: Burns white gas, kerosene, unleaded auto fuel, diesel, and jet fuel, the package includes a pump, windscreen, heat reflector, small-parts kit, instructions, and stuff sack. Folds to 1/3 of its working size and fits in a 2-liter MSR pot for easy storage. This delivers precision simmer-to-boil control with a simple twist of the flame adjuster. Wide Pot supports, *(The fuel bottle is not included.) http://www.amazon.com/MSR-DragonFly-Stove/dp/B0000APSTF/ref=sr_1_23?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1312582310&sr=1-23 or http://cascadedesigns.com/msr/stoves/basecamp-stoves/dragonfly/product

Rope(Paracord). Combine rope and knot making and you own a very valuable skill. There are so many things you can do with rope if you are willing to learn knots, and use your imagination. You don’t have to waste time on trying to find trees to make twine. That assumes trees won’t have been nuked into ash in many areas, gas lines ruptured, mass fires set by looters, or burned up for fuel. Rope will be needed for repelling from bad locations, making small one man bridges that can then be possibly recovered or cut, hammocks, backpacks, shelters, dragging, etc. There must be hundreds if not thousands of uses. Give me a scenario where it isn’t useful and I will be surprised. The better the quality great. The best part is that it is cheap and highly useful.

Night vision/Flashlights. Image a world where you were almost blind and to escape from hostiles in one bad situation you had to trade it for another where you entered tighter quarters that allowed for things to bump into you that would eat you alive in complete darkness. Well that would be called outside at night and running from a horde of the undead into a building for shelter. Welcome to life after electricity. Zombie tombs are maybe the scariest thing ever. Pitch dark and eaten alive is crap your pants scary. Being hunted for the purposes of rape, murder, cannibalism, or theft by humans equally scares me. Flashlights are great. Problem is when it is dark, and you have a flashlight everyone can see that light. It needs to be concealed or you lose the advantage of having it. If you can see at night and the opposition cannot you just turned from hunted to hunter. This brings me to types of flashlight to use. Go with Tritium if at all possible. The 20&30mm Tritium Illuminators(SPF) are like gold. It has a 10 year life span and will illuminate a 7×7 area well enough to see. Not well enough to be seen necessarily. This is military grade. Not super pricey. I have seen them on message boards from time to time for 150$ USD. Flashlights like the types that use cr123 batteries are awesome and bright. Problem is what happens after the batteries fail? Are you carrying a backpack full of batteries. (Not a bad idea mind you for barter.) The point I am making is Tritium based lights will far outlast anything else. Ten years should be enough time to establish some type of place with electricity, humans, fortification, and hopefully no Zeds. Until then, I will not entrust my life to batteries. I want something that is very hard to detect, and stands up to the heat and cold without bursting like batteries do. Betalight makes a tritium lanyard I believe meets my needs. I need to be able to let my eyes adjust to darkness and do most the work. For those areas where it is too dark I will use a Tritium based light. Having a hand crank or solar flashlight is great too. You need to access the application it is going to be used for. Tritium for general purpose must have and then a secondary. The Variable Brightness Torch I believe is the correct name for the product. You can search for the product via the search terms “Tritium Illuminator 20&30mm SPF.” The Torch is made by MB Microtec AG and is constructed out of polyamide and very durable. They have an acrylic lens to magnify/ project the light source. 20mm – 3.14 x 10 x 10 = 314, 30mm – 3.14 x 15 x 15 = 706.5, The illumination area of the 30mm is almost twice the size of the 20mm. Info here: http://ledmuseum.candlepower.us/fifth/ttorch.htm and http://www.armedforces-int.com/article/variable-brightness-torch.html . Betalight makes a similar tritium product called the Soldier’s Personal Illuminator http://www.betalight.nl/html/index.php?page_id=171

It goes without saying all flashlights should be waterproof, weather resistant, efficient, and durable. Any handcrank or Solar powered flashlight that does not meet that criteria is a waste of time. If you can find A flashlight that is hand crank and solar even better. If they use LED that can project a “green” or “blue” in addition to white light it is preferable. I have found that the green light makes animals cones reflect very well giving away their position. The blue light makes tracking blood from a wounded animal easier. The green and even blue are far less revealing from a concealment standpoint. Solar Paneled flashlights have a downside for sure. Solar panels require sun, and most likely you will sleep in the day if possible and travel in the cover of night. With enough nuclear fallout the sky may be overcast for years. You will have to hide a Solar Paneled flashlight somewhere to let it charge. It could be spotted basking in the sunlight. You just gave away you position to Human Hostiles. You may need to relocate and not be able to go back for it. Hand crank flashlights burn calories and are generally noisy. Most solar and hand cranks start out bright and then within an hour are so dim they are useless. That is why a combo version is better. If you can find one that can take a trickle charge, comes with an adapter for wall AC charging, and has a super long life you have a winner. As far as regular flashlights keep your high priced Surefire. Sure its durable but you do not need 220 lumens draining the flashlight in a battery conservation scenario. I will take a Pelican or Safe-Light. http://www.safe-light.com/store/safe-light-survival-led-flashlight.html , http://pelican.com/lights_detail.php?recordID=7060 Anything that can last 2 years on glow, which, is enough light once your eyes adjust to darkness is a winner in my book. http://www.amazon.com/Mil-Spec-Tritium-Illuminated-Aluminum-Military/dp/B0006YXWN2

A recurve bow. You cannot always be loud. Guns make noise. Sometimes you need to take an enemy from a distance quietly. You need a “Break Down Recurve Bow”. What is a Break Down Recurve Bow? A Break Down Recurve Bow is a bow that can be disassembled into 3 pieces for carrying. They are easy to assemble and can be used for fishing, hunting, and defense. Getting a quite quiver bag for arrows, a hand guard, and a finger guard is a great idea. Although it may seem cool, a Crossbow is not ever an option. Most are made from fiberglass and the string gets chewed up. Most bows that are fiberglass must be shot and can cause serious harm if dry fired. That is the same for compound bows. If you are going to choose a compound bow in your end of the Zombie Apocalypse, use a steel bow body where dry fire doesn’t matter. I would still be concerned that a homemade arrow in a compound might be dangerous. I also would like to see how easy a replacement string is to put on barring you carried several. A recurve bow doesn’t have that type of worry if it is wood or steel. Hoyt makes non fiberglass bows. Buy a Recurve and then learn to make you own. Use the one you purchase as a template. Learn to make the Bow String from Deer tendon. If you can make bows and arrows you can make a lot of friends. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W8m-OHoSto

A great “Survival” knife. I can argue knives all day but a Scrap Yard Knives knife is the best on the planet in my opinion. I did my homework and I believe SR77 steel or INFI steel has a good Rockwell rating, Keeps a damn fine edge, is durable, made to amazing quality specs, etc, and meets anyone’s needs. These knives http://www.scrapyardknives.com/intro.htm or http://www.scrapyardknives.com/gallery.htm like the Yard dog are just exceptional knives and a great price point. Specs: Steel: SR-77 Hardness: 58 – 60 Rc Handle: Resiprene C Thickness: Approx. .280″ Blade Length: 7” Overall Length: 12”. Honorable mention would go to one of the cheapest knives you could find in the Cold Steel GI Tanto. Specs: Overall: 12″ Thick: 4mm Weight: 10.6 oz. Steel: 1055 Carbon Blade: 7″ Sheath: Secure-Ex® http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H9DO4Y/ref=asc_df_B004H9DO4Y1983871?smid=A36NIL00HJ3IIY&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B004H9DO4Y&hvpos=1o1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12014828541928679696&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt= or http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CS80PGTK/Cold-Steel-GI-Tanto-Fixed-7-inch-Carbon-Steel-Blade-Secure-Ex-Sheath or http://www.coldsteel.com/gitanto.html

A firearm. I won’t argue which gun or pistol or both you should have with you. There are just too many persons out there that will argue. Make sure whatever you use meets the application needs. If you are living in Colorado the game you will hunt can get quite large and need a high caliber bullet. Conversely, you wouldn’t want to carry 1000 rounds of .308 because it is heavy. You have to balance practicality. If you choose .300 blackout, when you run out then what? If you run 5.56 you have balance to take out things 300 yards and in with the ability to scavenge rounds in North America. In Europe the AK 7.62×39 may be a better option for you. Perhaps the pistol uses .22 rounds due the availability, relative quietness, and light weight. Maybe you want to have a heavy round for you side arm. You will need a pistol for tight quarters that can penetrate skull. Undead or Human bullets are a commodity and at the end of times that will continue. There will be a need for you to use a pistol or rifle in some scenario. You see my point that the application, environment, and weight all factor into the decision. No matter what a Trijicon optic if you are not going iron sites is a must unless the glass is etched. Personally, a pump action bb pistol for shooting rabbits and small animals as I walk a trail is ideal. It is quite and I can carry a ton of bb’s. Also a sling shot that is seriously strong is in the same category. I have acorns, rocks, and just about anything I can use with that. Making a blow gun for frogs or poison tips needles could come in handy for Hostile humans or non-poison tipped for frogs. I would also recommend a body protection vest like a bullet proof vest that is highly rated for stab resistance. Remember there are animals that are going to predate, the undead, and good old humans. Being able to protect yourself from a bullet wound, stabbing, or animal attach even if it just helps slightly is better than nothing. I would recommend shin guards, gloves with knuckles built in, and for certain a good Airsoft fiberglass mask. The mask protect you from debris and in a scenario where you can anticipate a lot of demolition protecting your eyes and surrounding area is a good idea. I wrote an article on a good zombie suit. http://zorvival.com/?p=296 , http://www.bulletproofme.com/Ballistic_Protection_Levels.shtml , http://www.bulletproofme.com/Stab-Resistance-Levels.shtml

A bag of camping gear. This can be a luxury, but you want to be able to be mobile and have some basic supplies. A good backpack that can stay dry, you have modded to camouflage for the environment you will operate in, and has a built in Camelpack preferably. Remember to not go buy the heaviest bag you can find just because it has a lot of features. That extra pound or more matters. The pack needs to be maneuverable, fit you size, hold gear, and not sink like a rock in the water or be so large it impedes movement. What goes in it? Well that breaks the whole 12 must haves. That’s ok. It will differ from person to person. I like Hammocks. Give me an Eagles nest Rainfly, mosquito net, slap straps and a Hammock and I am set. Why is that my choice? Because is light weight, and I can sleep above danger out of the line of site in the tree tops and hide my gear up there and come back for it. I don’t have issues with animals trying to get in my rig unless they can climb. The Zombies can shuffle past as well as any humans. I am also most likely out of scent zone of most dogs. I do understand I am screwed if treed, but I like my chances. I can use a Camouflage Netting over my hammock for concealment. Other than someone climbing up and getting shot with an arrow for trying I feel I am good to go with a light camp rig. The Camo Netting will be double purpose in the winter as an extra layer of insulation from the cold. I will not have the ground seeping heat from me. A good emergency reflective blanket and thick piece of clear plastic are good additions and weigh next to nothing. They can really make a nice heated basecamp addition. Cody Lundin demonstrates this: http://survivalcache.com/dual-survival-emergency-blanket-heat-shelter/ A few other items you should have are a small waterproof medical kit, a good steel pot, a good steel cup with a screw water tight seal, some string or wire for traps, iodine water purification tablets, a small hand held mirror that is encapsulated in some sort of container so it will not break, small can opener, compass, a grappling hook if possible, a trench shovel, also http://www.rei.com/search?query=eaglesnest and http://www.camonetsusa.com/categories/3D-Digital-Camo-Nets/

Watching and learning. You need to know what you can do to live in the wilderness. You need to know how to use plants in the wild for medicine. You have to learn to hunt. http://www.youtube.com/topic/58eGK4zlMn4/dave-canterbury , http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=herbal+medicine&oq=herbal+medicine&aq=f&aqi=g10&aql=&gs_nf=1&gs_l=youtube-psuggest.3..0l10.21773.24429.0.24836.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYJKd0rkKss , http://survivalcache.com/




%d bloggers like this: